Use this beam with stock spindles for a 2″ drop.
Its almost 20 years since CE produced the Worlds first Production all new Bus Beam. During that period we have refined and developed the design to what we have today. We believe is the best product of its kind available.
All our beams incorporate CAD, CAM and CNC laser technology to make each part fit and work perfectly. Our beams are renowned for the quality of the welding which is executed to the highest standard in house in our latest precision jigs. This insures a perfect fit and maximum integrity
ABOUT YOUR SPRINGS.
When they were new, your nine leaf springs were welded together at both ends to aid insertion into the beam. Very often the welds will have broken over the years. If they have they will need to be re welded to make it easier to refit the springs. A good idea is to use your swings arms to accurately position all nine leaves prior to welding. If you knock the end cap out of the swing arm you can slide the springs through a couple of inches to allow enough space to weld the leaves. When they have cooled chamfer the spring bundle with a 3-4mm angle on all four sides with a sanding disc. This will make it easy to insert the spring.
Each tube has one of these central bosses that lock
the springs in position. The bosses are secured in place
by pressed dimples and a grub screw. Adjustors allow these
to rotate and raise or lower the bus. Because they are secured
in the middle of the tubes, it can be difficult to insert springs
unless they are accurately positioned and welded.
Each tube has one of these central bosses that lock the springs in position.
The bosses are secured in place by pressed dimples and a grub screw.
Adjustors allow these to rotate and raise or lower the bus. Because they are
secured in the middle of the tubes, it can be difficult to insert springs unless
they are accurately positioned and welded.
SHORTENING YOUR SPRINGS.
Do not shorten your springs until you have drilled the new dimples. When they are drilled you can cut the springs down with an angle grinder fitted with a thin cutting disc. You will then have to re weld the spring ends.
Your original springs were approx 975mm long and need to be shortened down to suit which ever beam you have bought. Be sure to cut equal amounts of each end of the spring. You need to re drill new dimples EXACTLY as the chart below shows. Do this by dot punching a mark first. When you are sure that your dot punches are correct, you can drill a pilot hole of 3mm to the depth of the original dimple. Follow up with a 6mm hole and them a 9mm. Work up to the 12mm hole size that the original had.
It is CRITICAL that you replicate the original dimple as accurately as possible. Check that the 12mm drill has a point similar to the original dimple. If not sharpen the drill bit until it does match. Use oil to keep the drill tip cool. Reduce drill speed as you increase the diameter of the hole. If it gets hot it will blunt quickly as the material is very hard. You will find it vital to use good quality, sharp drill bits to make this job easy. If you have a friend in a machine shop, let him do the job using a cobalt hardened drill with coolant.
This is critical as the only thing that holds your front end together are the four grub screws that fit into these dimples. If in doubt get an engineer to do the job. Creative Engineering accept no responsibility for incorrectly drilled dimples.